Pool Leak Detection

If we don't find your pool leak YOU DON'T PAY!

Call Us today - (561)697-3939

State certified Commercial/Residential pool contractor - CPC1457754

PLUS ******We are the only company with a 2 year warranty on all structural & plumbing repairs.

Since 1988 we’ve been finding pool leaks in South Florida from basic residential pools to complicated commercial pools. It doesn’t matter of the size of your pool we are here to solve your mystery.

The Price of water has nearly tripled since we’ve first started but the price for leak detection has only gone up slightly. So now more than ever it is wisest to address this issue as soon as possible.

All water evaporates so the first rule of thumb for any body of water is to determine if your water loss is actually a leak or is it just excessive evaporation. there are so many variables in water evaporation from the tension of the surface to the temperature of the water vrs. air, dew point, barometric pressure, so the evaporation rate will never be steady it is constantly changing. To answer the question a simple BUCKET TEST is in order.

THE BUCKET TEST

 The goal here is to try to get the same/similar water surface tension and water temperature between two different bodies of water to measure against each other.

  1. Bring the pool water to its normal level half way in the skimmer mouth is the designed water level. *Attached spas/fountains should be full to the brink of overflow. *Commercial pools with gutters adjust the level in the pool with the pump off to be at the brink of flowing into the gutter with the gutter level full. Think of the gutter as a separate pool sitting next to the main pool and the surge tank as the 3rd pool.
  2. Close the pool from all living creatures, Close the auto-fill valve if equipped, keep ALL pumps and blowers off during the test to have the same/similar surface tension as the bucket.
  3. Pool/spa combos & commercial pools its best to isolate all bodies of water to measure them against each other, close all valves and take the pump strainer basket lid off to prevent any siphoning action if possible.
  4. Fill an empty bucket with pool water to about one inch from the top of bucket. (By filling the bucket close to the top you are ensuring that air movement over the surface of the bucket will be similar to that of the pool).
  5. Place the bucket on the first or second step of the pool. To keep it from floating away it may be necessary to place a few bricks or rocks into the bucket but be sure to let the water in the bucket water fully absorb into the bricks & settle for 15 minutes before marking. (By placing the bucket in the pool water you are ensuring that the water temperature of each will be similar).
  6. Mark the water level inside the bucket with a lead pencil, tape, marker or nail polish ( I always use a pencil but inscribing back and forth is necessary).
  7. Mark the water level of the pool on the outside of the bucket, on the pool wall/tile, or inside the skimmer on the wall is the easiest.
  8. Revisit between 18 to 30 hours max, compare the two levels. If the pool water (outside mark) goes down 1/16″ more than the inside water level, there is a leak. if the levels go down to close to tell it is just evaporating, there should be a clear difference between the two.
  9. Pool/Spas and commercial pools can measure the loss(if any) out of the bucket against the pool, spa, gutter or surge tank to see which body of water is actually leaking. If for instance the spa went down 2 inches and the bucket & pool went down the same it’s obvious. If a raised spa went down 2″ and the pool level is higher than the bucket there is no leak, just a check/valve issue.